Thoughts on Canyon de Chelly

Up in the northeast corner of Arizona, located in the Navajo Nation, is a most remarkable canyon called Canyon de Chelly (pronounced "shay"). Like many places in Arizona it is a study in contrasts. The entrance to the Canyon is practically in the middle of a good sized town, Chinle, Arizona. When I first visited the Canyon, the town was very small and the Canyon seemed to be quite a distance from the town, but over the years Chinle has grown into a major economic center, with a hospital, a number of schools and many government buildings. There are shopping centers and a lot of other businesses. In the U.S. Census for 2000, Chinle had 5,366 people.

Just to the south and east of the town, the entrance to the Canyon is unremarkable and unless you knew that the Canyon was there, you might drive by without noticing it. Canyon de Chelly is one of the longest continuously inhabited places in North America. From the National Park Service description:

The cultural resources of Canyon de Chelly include distinctive architecture, artifacts, and rock imagery while exhibiting remarkable preservation integrity that provides outstanding opportunities for study and contemplation. Canyon de Chelly also sustains a living community of Navajo people, who are connected to a landscape of great historical and spiritual significance. Canyon de Chelly is unique among National Park service units, as it is comprised entirely of Navajo Tribal Trust Land that remains home to the canyon community. NPS works in partnership with the Navajo Nation to manage park resources and sustain the living Navajo community.

Because the Canyon is home to the Navajo people, travel into the Canyon is tightly controlled. There is only one place that you can descend the Canyon walls and visit the floor unaccompanied by a local guide. The hike down to the White House Ruin from the South Rim Drive is one of those locations. Although the hike is short, it is memorable and worth the drive to the Canyon.

If you have time and the money, you can take a guided tour through the Canyon. Authorized Navajo Guides are required and charge $15 an hour for one vehicle and $5 and hour for each additional vehicle with a 5-vehicle limit. Travel in the Canyon is definitely limited to four-wheel drive and sand equipped vehicles. For a larger fee, you can take a guided tour on one of the large four-wheel drive trucks operated by concessionaires.

More later (Thanks to the NPS for the photo above)